Layovers, wine farms and a picnic at 35,000 feet

A couple of weeks ago we travelled to Cape Town, arriving home on the Wednesday before all hell broke loose in the world on Friday. I have already written about the situation in the UAE, so this is something a little more light-hearted.

It is fair to say that South African Airways are not operating the most modern fleet on their short-haul routes. I took some comfort in the fact that the captain would hardly endanger himself, his crew or his passengers simply because the aircraft had seen a fair few birthdays. That said, I did have to sit on my pillow to make up for the lack of upholstery.

Direct flights only operate twice a week, which meant we had to change in Johannesburg on our outward journey. It was far more complicated than it needed to be. As the first point of entry into the country, customs and immigration formalities were required — fair enough — but on arriving at the re-check-in desk in the transfer zone for our onward flight to Cape Town we found nobody there and nothing to advise passengers where to go or what to do. What followed was a trawl around the airport with our luggage trying to find someone, anyone, who might help. After a few false starts involving lifts and escalators we eventually emerged into the regular departure area, only to be met with a shrug of indifference about the complete absence of information for transit passengers.

The last time I flew with South African Airways was from Heathrow to Johannesburg — another journey not without incident, although that time it had nothing to do with the airline. A fire at Gate Gourmet’s catering facility meant no catering or drinks trolleys would be loaded onto the flight. I was travelling with a good friend who was working on a project with me and, to her delight, we were flying business class — a first for her.

The crew were buying water for passengers from airport shops and we were given vouchers to purchase sandwiches and snacks. Eleven hours without a drink in business class, however, called for desperate measures. While enjoying the benefits of the lounge I spotted a couple of unopened bottles of wine that were rapidly stashed in my hand luggage, along with a bottle opener. Theft or innovation — you decide. All I will say is that there were some very jealous people on that flight and we had a splendid picnic at 35,000 feet.

There is nothing quite like visiting someone’s hometown with them as your guides. We had been to Cape Town once before, many years ago, and had ticked off all the usual attractions: Table Mountain, Robben Island, the Cape of Good Hope, Chapman’s Peak Drive, the penguins at Boulders Beach and whale watching in Hermanus. Although sadly the whales failed to make an appearance, it was still a fantastic trip. This time was all about exploring the city itself and its suburbs, and experiencing the food and wine the region is so well known for. Thanks to our resident experts we stayed in Sea Point, an ideal spot by the ocean but close to the city, with plenty of great shops, bars and restaurants within walking distance.

Top of my “to-visit” list was The Silo at the V&A Waterfront. The iconic building — a former grain store made up of 42 concrete tubes — was saved from demolition when it fell into disuse and eventually brought back to life in an impressive feat of urban regeneration as a five-star hotel and contemporary art museum. It did not disappoint. The carved-out tubes create an interior that feels like a giant honeycomb, with stunning views of Table Mountain and the harbour. You can appreciate the view from the glass-floored roof terrace of the gallery but, with a husband who is not overly fond of heights (and glass floors even less), the rooftop bar of the hotel — accompanied by several glasses of chilled rosé — proved a far more relaxing experience. If you go, remember to book; the chances of walking in are slim.

Living in Mauritius has created a need to become far better informed about South African wine, so what better opportunity to educate myself than visiting a few wine farms? They are not known as vineyards because many were — and still are — working farms where vines are only part of the picture.

We enjoyed sparkling wine at Steenberg in Constantia and sampled everything from sparkling to dessert wine at Boschendal, Rainbow’s End and Tokara in Stellenbosch. Personal highlights included dessert wine served with breakfast canapés at Boschendal and a very cheeky Sauvignon Blanc at Tokara. The variety extended beyond the wine: historic Cape Dutch barns sit alongside futuristic steel and glass architecture, all set against spectacular scenery, art and sculpture. Yes, we did go wine tasting for breakfast! 

Cape Town is a food lover’s paradise and we ate very well. Standout moments included getting splashed by waves over fish and chips at the institution that is the Brass Bell in Kalk Bay; fine dining at Harry’s followed by sunset from the rooftop bar at Chinchilla in Camps Bay; and melt-in-the-mouth steak at Brad’s Grill in Sea Point, which has been feeding people for more than forty years. If I lived in Sea Point I would probably never cook breakfast again, with Jooma and Arthur’s Mini Super just around the corner. It is also worth mentioning that both supermarkets and restaurants offer excellent quality at remarkably good value. You can easily get a full meal and a drink for the price of a large glass of wine in London.

Thank you Cape Town. And thank you Karen and Luke.

We will be back.